![]() Rabbit), a totem of Beijing traditionally used for worship and often seen in decoration, as a symbol of happiness. ![]() Chief among them is the mashed potato in the shape of Lord Rabbit (a.k.a. From what looks like a royal jewel chest, a server pulls tiny drawers housing accoutrements-hoisin, scallions, matchsticks of cucumber, pickles, honeydew melon-then demonstrates the optimal technique for wrapping slices of meat and garnishes into bing pancakes, plucked from a bamboo steamer.Īs you scroll through the handsomely photographed digital menu, on an oversized tablet, dense with offal and intriguing sea creatures, some items may stop you in your tracks. First, a chef with the precision of a surgeon removes a long strip of lacquered, golden skin, which gets razored into segments the size of postage stamps each is placed atop a square of steamed bread and finished with a delicate pile of sturgeon caviar. The most obvious thing to eat is a bird-a whole Peking duck, carved tableside. Light fixtures resemble birdhouses, and a table for large groups sits inside an enormous gilded cage. In Flushing, the dining room’s décor, which incorporates bricks shipped from Beijing, is inspired by that city’s hutong, charming residential alleyways dating from the Yuan dynasty.īirds are a big theme here, reflecting the Beijing custom, popularized during the Qing dynasty, of keeping them as pets. In 2014, Han, a Beijinger, opened the first Ju Qi-which has twenty locations in China and one in Sydney-to showcase the culture of his home town. ![]() One member of the group, a native of Beijing, wore a hazy glow of nostalgia that I imagine would please Ju Qi’s founder, Tong Han. ![]() They proffered handfuls for us to try, too: foil-wrapped disks of haw flakes, ruddy-pink wafers made from the red berries of the Chinese hawthorn miniature twists of brown-sugar-glazed fried dough known as ma hua. The other night, as some friends and I left dinner at Ju Qi, in a new luxury mall called Tangram, in Flushing, we passed a group of patrons in the foyer behaving like kids in a candy store, literally, raiding bowls of complimentary treats with glee. ![]()
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